The main difference is the winding material: the GL80 uses aluminum coils, while the GL70 uses copper. Performance-wise, the GL80 is suitable for an upright deep freezer, whereas the GL70 is best for a 12ft double-door refrigerator
“The technical difference between the two compressors, manufactured by ZEM or ACC, lies primarily in the horsepower (HP) and displacement volume:

GL80: Has a slightly lower capacity, rated at approximately 1/5 HP

GL90: Typically rated at 1/4 HP (or equivalent, depending on the specific model

Technical Conclusion: Compressor Interchanges

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1. Replacing GL80 by GL90 yes
2. Replacing GL90 by GL80 non
3. Replacing GL80 by GL70 non
4. Replacing GL70 by GL80 yes

“The process of replacing the air conditioner compressor is successful, and it is working as it was before.”

Alternatively, if you are asking whether the process is viable, it can be translated as: “Is replacing the air conditioner compressor effective, and will it work as well as it did before?”

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Key Points regarding Compressor Replacement:

If you are considering this repair, here are a few things to keep in mind to ensure it works “as it was”:

• Matching Specifications: The new compressor must have the exact same cooling capacity (BTU) and electrical specifications as the original.
• System Flushing: It is vital to flush the refrigerant lines to remove any contaminants or burnt oil from the old compressor; otherwise, the new one may fail quickly.
• Vacuuming: A deep vacuum must be pulled on the system to remove moisture before recharging with gas.
• Cost-Benefit: Since the compressor is the “heart” of the AC, the repair can be expensive. If the unit is more than 10 years old, it is often more cost-effective to replace the entire unit.

The issues you are experiencing with your Brandt refrigerator (ice buildup, unusual noise, and poor cooling) indicate a failure in the No Frost defrost system. Since a specialist was unable to fix it, the fault may have been misdiagnosed.

Here is the translation of the causes and solutions provided:

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Possible Causes and Solutions

1. Clogged Drain Line (Canal d’évacuation bouché)

• The Cause: When ice melts during the defrost cycle, water must flow into the rear tray through a drain tube. If blocked, water freezes in the evaporator, obstructing airflow and cooling.
• The Solution:

  1. Unplug the refrigerator.
  2. Locate the drain hole at the bottom of the freezer compartment.
  3. Pour hot water into the hole to melt any ice blockage.
  4. Use a thin wire or compressed air to ensure the tube is completely clear.

2. Faulty Ventilation Fan (Ventilateur bloqué ou HS)

• The Cause: The fan distributes cold air. If it gets stuck due to ice buildup or suffers a mechanical failure, it will make noise and the fridge will stop cooling.
• The Solution:

  1. After defrosting the unit, turn it on and check if the fan spins when the door is closed.
  2. If it doesn’t spin, try moving it manually. If it remains stuck, it likely needs replacement.

3. Defective Defrost Heater (Résistance de dégivrage)

• The Cause: This heater melts ice periodically. If it fails, ice will accumulate continuously.
• The Solution:

  1. Test the heater using a multimeter (Ohms setting).
  2. If the circuit is broken, the part must be replaced by a specialist.

4. Damaged Temperature Sensor or Thermostat (Sonde HS)

• The Cause: If the sensor is faulty, the system won’t know when to trigger the defrost cycle, leading to excessive ice.
• The Solution:

  1. Replace the sensor (this is usually an inexpensive and straightforward fix).

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What Should You Do Now?

1. Manual Defrost: Manually defrost the unit and follow the steps above.
2. Monitor: If the problem returns after a few days, the issue is likely electrical (the heater, sensor, or timer/control board).
3. Professional Check: For a permanent fix, ask a technician to specifically measure the resistance (heater) and the sensor rather than just performing a manual defrost.

[!CAUTION] Important Advice: Never scrape ice with sharp tools (like knives) to avoid puncturing the cooling coils, which would cause a permanent refrigerant leak.

Our technical investigation revealed a dual issue. The system was suffering from a restricted filter drier, causing a blockage that choked the cooling cycle. This strain had also compromised the motor’s starting components.

Technical Specifications

Feature	Specification
Model	S65CZ1
Brand	Panasonic
Refrigerant	R134a
Power Supply	220-240V / 50Hz
Cooling Capacity	Approximately 165W (at ASHRAE conditions)
Horsepower	1/5 HP
Displacement	6.5 cm3
Motor Type	RSIR (Resistive Start-Inductive Run)

Our intervention included:

• System Clearing: Replacing the clogged filter to allow the refrigerant to flow freely once again.
• Electrical Upgrade: Installing a brand-new high-quality “Starting Kit” (Relay/Overload) to ensure the compressor starts smoothly every time.
• The Mbsmpro Promise: We don’t just fix; we provide peace of mind. This repair is backed by a full 6-month warranty.